This is the advice a friend of mine gives. His cameras cost thousands and he
is a prize winning photographer. I am not a photographer, so have no idea of
the merits of his advice, but take an interest in it because of a general
interest in technology and because I have someone else to buy for. Here is a
summary.
1) OS does not matter unless you are using RAW. Otherwise you are using a
card reader, and any OS will manage jpeg. If you are shooting in RAW the
program to read it in is very important, and not all programmes come for all
OSs. There is something about Macs and Canons - the best RAW software seems
to come only for windows.
2) More megapixels are not better, in fact they are probably worse in compact
cameras, because noise rises as the pixel size gets smaller. You will see
this particularly in low light conditions.
3) There are two reasons why SLRs are better, and a lot better, than anything
else, if quality is what matters. One is size of sensor. They have big
sensors, less noise. The other is that they do not use power to deliver the
view through the viewfinder. This means more rapid operation, less power
consumption. The difference between the alleged semi-pro small sensor
cameras and true SLRs is huge, and way out of proportion to the difference
either in cost or size. I think his view is, though he doesn't say this
explicitly, that the 'semi pro' ones which look like SLRs but are not, is
like lipstick on a pig. The only thing to use, if you are serious about
picture quality, is an SLR. The difference, he says, is huge.
4) When considering SLRs, worry about dust. Every time you do a lens
change, dust will be attracted to the sensor. Cleaning up the dust in
photoshop or equivalent will be inredibly time consuming. He uses these
special brushes,very expensive, to get the dust off the sensor. There are
different ways of getting the dust off automatically now with different
makes. Worry about dust. Worry about how you are going to manage, how much
its going to cost, whether you have to return for maintenance to get it done.
Think hard about whether you actually need to change lenses, and if not, get
the kind of lens that is flexible enough to leave in place forever.
If you're a pro you can't avoid changing lenses. As an amateur, plan so you
don't have to.
5) More optical zoom is not better. It is impossible to make 12 x optical
zoom lenses that are as good at any given zoom as a non-zooming lens. So
anything more than 4 or 5 x zoom means compromising quality at all zoom
levels.
5) Image stabilisation is fine, but beware of processing that increases
sharpness. What you want is a stabilised image, with as little processing as
possible. If any sharpening is going to be done, do it yourself on the PC.
Otherwise you risk ending up with a pre-processed image where further
processing will just degrade quality.
6) He has cameras that cost 5k plus. Nevertheless, the ones that he is
surprised to find give him excellent shots and surprisingly good quality are
the 200 pound or so compacts with moderate MP and Zoom count. He
particularly mentions a Fuji whose model number I have forgotten. It had
quite a high MP count. I can find out if you want.
7) Some of these, particularly the more expensive ones, have all kinds of
manual controls. He has been surprised to find that they don't appeal to him
at all, though in SLRs he is very manual control oriented. He actually
prefers simple point and click in compacts, and doesn't quite know why the
ones which allow him the freedom he has with his expensive SLRs always seem
to get left at home.
I found these conversations interesting because they are so different from
anything you read in reviews. As a consequence I bought for my nearest and
dearest a then high end 3 x zoom 4MP camera, a couple of large compact flash
cards, and a reader. It has worked brilliantly. Its easy to use, the
quality is excellent, the zoom is about right, its purse or jacket pocket
size, and it goes everywhere. Its certainly not what I had in mind before I
asked him.
Peter