On 10 June 2011 15:39, Matthew Green matthew.j.green@ntlworld.com wrote:
If you're looking to build something to help overclocking the inexpensive kits are generally worse than high end air-cooling.
I agree...
The watercooling kit should be open not closed / sealed unit because it should allow me to put the distilled water.
Unless I have miss-understand, this is a bad idea. In the event of a leak you want to be using non-conductive coolant liquid. $friend had water cooling, it sprung a leak 'thankfully' over only one part, one of this graphics cards, which after being drained and dried still worked.
On 10/06/11 22:00, James Bensley wrote:
On 10 June 2011 15:39, Matthew Greenmatthew.j.green@ntlworld.com wrote:
If you're looking to build something to help overclocking the inexpensive kits are generally worse than high end air-cooling.
I agree...
The watercooling kit should be open not closed / sealed unit because it should allow me to put the distilled water.
Unless I have miss-understand, this is a bad idea. In the event of a leak you want to be using non-conductive coolant liquid. $friend had water cooling, it sprung a leak 'thankfully' over only one part, one of this graphics cards, which after being drained and dried still worked.
/Pedant mode on
Technically pure distilled water can get pretty damn close to being non-conductive or at least it will start off that way. Unfortunately it won't stay that way very long. :)
Oh and I agree on the cheap water cooling kits being rubbish, just don't bother and get well sorted forced air cooling.
On Fri, Jun 10, 2011 at 10:00:31PM +0100, James Bensley wrote:
On 10 June 2011 15:39, Matthew Green matthew.j.green@ntlworld.com wrote:
If you're looking to build something to help overclocking the inexpensive kits are generally worse than high end air-cooling.
I agree...
The watercooling kit should be open not closed / sealed unit because it should allow me to put the distilled water.
Unless I have miss-understand, this is a bad idea. In the event of a leak you want to be using non-conductive coolant liquid. $friend had water cooling, it sprung a leak 'thankfully' over only one part, one of this graphics cards, which after being drained and dried still worked.
Distilled water *is* virtually non-conductive. It's only the salts and impurities in tap water (and/or river water etc.) that make it moderately conductive.
Distilled water *is* virtually non-conductive. It's only the salts and impurities in tap water (and/or river water etc.) that make it moderately conductive.
It's not only the salts. There is some natural ionisation that will result in free H+ and OH- ions. You can't really escape that so even mineral free ultra pure water in a perfectly sealed sterile container (of a material that won't release minerals as the water desperately tries to leach them) will still be *slightly* conductive.
Also pretty much as soon as it came into contact with the guts of a PC it will absorb enough minerals to become conductive rather quickly if it hadn't already done so in the cooling loop of a cheap Watercooling system.
Yeah, you can go for cooling fluids which are basically distilled water with additives (Which is what I've gone for). But the only options for proper non-conductivity are mineral oils (which can be a bit viscous) or another option is Fluronert by 3M which was used by Cray, but that's more expensive than fine champagne.
-----Original Message----- From: main-bounces@lists.alug.org.uk [mailto:main-bounces@lists.alug.org.uk] On Behalf Of Wayne Stallwood Sent: 11 June 2011 17:36 To: main@lists.alug.org.uk Subject: Re: [ALUG] Could you build a water cooled PC?
Distilled water *is* virtually non-conductive. It's only the salts and impurities in tap water (and/or river water etc.) that make it moderately conductive.
It's not only the salts. There is some natural ionisation that will result in free H+ and OH- ions. You can't really escape that so even mineral free ultra pure water in a perfectly sealed sterile container (of a material that won't release minerals as the water desperately tries to leach them) will still be *slightly* conductive.
Also pretty much as soon as it came into contact with the guts of a PC it will absorb enough minerals to become conductive rather quickly if it hadn't already done so in the cooling loop of a cheap Watercooling system.
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On Sat, Jun 11, 2011 at 05:36:18PM +0100, Wayne Stallwood wrote:
Distilled water *is* virtually non-conductive. It's only the salts and impurities in tap water (and/or river water etc.) that make it moderately conductive.
It's not only the salts. There is some natural ionisation that will result in free H+ and OH- ions. You can't really escape that so even mineral free ultra pure water in a perfectly sealed sterile container (of a material that won't release minerals as the water desperately tries to leach them) will still be *slightly* conductive.
Also pretty much as soon as it came into contact with the guts of a PC it will absorb enough minerals to become conductive rather quickly if it hadn't already done so in the cooling loop of a cheap Watercooling system.
Yes, agreed, but you'd be surprised what a high resistance even tap water has. People think that water is 'conductive' like metals but is isn't. Many simple low voltage devices will work quite happily under water for a while though sensitive electronics won't of course. For example electric motors and such just carry on (a bit slower) under water, at least for a few minutes until damage to bearings and such sets in.
I have wondered about this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CWCH50-1-Water-Cooler/dp/B002QG2H7K
which seems to get rave reviews. But when it came to it recently, putting together some new systems for us at home, I just got silverstone sff cases, i3 processors, extra large fans, and slowed them down with those little resistor packs you can get from silentpc.
Not silent, but quiet enough, and absolutely no problem with heat.
I do still wonder from time to time about the corsair....
Peter
On Saturday 11 June 2011 17:06:32 Chris G wrote:
On Fri, Jun 10, 2011 at 10:00:31PM +0100, James Bensley wrote:
On 10 June 2011 15:39, Matthew Green matthew.j.green@ntlworld.com wrote:
If you're looking to build something to help overclocking the inexpensive kits are generally worse than high end air-cooling.
I agree...
The watercooling kit should be open
not closed / sealed unit because it should allow me to put the distilled water.
Unless I have miss-understand, this is a bad idea. In the event of a leak you want to be using non-conductive coolant liquid. $friend had water cooling, it sprung a leak 'thankfully' over only one part, one of this graphics cards, which after being drained and dried still worked.
Distilled water *is* virtually non-conductive. It's only the salts and impurities in tap water (and/or river water etc.) that make it moderately conductive.
From looking at the comments here:
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=624285
The response seems to be 'Meh'. High end air cooling can do the same for cheaper, water really comes into its own because you can have such a large surface area cooling the water with a 2x120 or 3x120 radiator, with a radiator that just offers a single 120mm fan, that's not much more surface area than a high end heatsink.
Matt
-----Original Message----- From: main-bounces@lists.alug.org.uk [mailto:main-bounces@lists.alug.org.uk] On Behalf Of Peter Alcibiades Sent: 12 June 2011 12:07 To: main@lists.alug.org.uk Subject: Re: [ALUG] Could you build a water cooled PC?
I have wondered about this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CWCH50-1-Water-Cooler/dp/B002QG2H7K
which seems to get rave reviews. But when it came to it recently, putting together some new systems for us at home, I just got silverstone sff cases, i3 processors, extra large fans, and slowed them down with those little resistor packs you can get from silentpc.
Not silent, but quiet enough, and absolutely no problem with heat.
I do still wonder from time to time about the corsair....
Peter
On Saturday 11 June 2011 17:06:32 Chris G wrote:
On Fri, Jun 10, 2011 at 10:00:31PM +0100, James Bensley wrote:
On 10 June 2011 15:39, Matthew Green matthew.j.green@ntlworld.com
wrote:
If you're looking to build something to help overclocking the inexpensive kits are generally worse than high end air-cooling.
I agree...
The watercooling kit should be open
not closed / sealed unit because it should allow me to put the distilled water.
Unless I have miss-understand, this is a bad idea. In the event of a leak you want to be using non-conductive coolant liquid. $friend had water cooling, it sprung a leak 'thankfully' over only one part, one of this graphics cards, which after being drained and dried still worked.
Distilled water *is* virtually non-conductive. It's only the salts and impurities in tap water (and/or river water etc.) that make it moderately conductive.
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Wayne Stallwood